Spinach Plant Guide: How to Grow Spinach in Spring, Fall and Winter

Sow spinach 1/2 inch deep 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost and again in late summer for fall, thin to about 3 inches, and pick outer leaves or cut whole plants before long, hot days make it bolt.

Sources: University of Maryland Extension, Utah State University Extension, Wisconsin Horticulture, NC State Extension Plant Toolbox and 4 more. See the sources we used. How we source our guides

Updated

Painted bunch of spinach with broad, crinkled dark green leaves on slender stems, tied with twine
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To grow a spinach plant, sow it in cool weather: outdoors roughly 2 to 4 weeks ahead of your last spring frost, when the soil has warmed to 40 to 45 F, and once more in late summer for fall leaves. Give it sun or partial shade and fertile, well-drained soil (pH 6.0 or higher), watered 1 to 2 inches weekly. Set the seed about 1/2 inch deep and thin to roughly 3 inches apart. Spinach likes 50 to 60 F weather, takes hard frost, and flowers (bolts) once days grow long and warm, so sow small batches several days to 2 weeks apart in spring rather than one big row. Pick outer leaves as they size up, or cut whole plants once they mature, 28 to 55 days from seed by Maryland Extension's count.

When to plant spinach

Plant spinach 2 to 4 weeks ahead of the average last spring frost, and plant it again about 5 to 10 weeks before the first fall frost (our count from Utah State's fall figures, below). Wisconsin Extension sows about 4 weeks ahead of the last frost. Utah State gives 2 to 3 weeks in its summary and 3 to 4 weeks in its planting notes. The soil sets the floor: Utah State sows once the soil is 40 F, Maryland Extension waits for 45 F, while the seed firm Johnny's Selected Seeds begins "as soon as the ground can be worked". Cold is no problem: Utah State says 32 F does young plants no serious harm, and NC State says plants survive down to 20 F.

The table turns those rules into 2027 dates for four NOAA weather stations. Each freeze column is a NOAA normal (1991 to 2020) for the last or first 32 F night at 50 percent odds, so any single year can land on either side of it.

Spinach sowing dates at four NOAA stations (2027 calendar)
Station Indoor start (Utah State) Sow outdoors (Wisconsin) Sow outdoors (Utah State) Spring freeze date Fall sowing window (our count from Utah State) Fall freeze date
Minneapolis-St. Paul, MN Mar 12 to Mar 19 Mar 26 Apr 2 to Apr 9 Apr 23 Aug 11 to Sep 12 Oct 18
Baltimore (BWI), MD Feb 27 to Mar 6 Mar 13 Mar 20 to Mar 27 Apr 10 Aug 24 to Sep 25 Oct 31
Raleigh-Durham, NC Feb 17 to Feb 24 Mar 3 Mar 10 to Mar 17 Mar 31 Aug 28 to Sep 29 Nov 4
Dallas-Fort Worth, TX Jan 25 to Feb 1 Feb 8 Feb 15 to Feb 22 Mar 8 Sep 17 to Oct 19 Nov 24

Sow outdoors (Wisconsin) = the spring freeze date minus 4 weeks, our reading of its "about 4 weeks before the average date of last frost". Sow outdoors (Utah State) = 3 to 2 weeks before it, from Utah State's summary; its planting notes (3 to 4 weeks before transplants set out near the frost-free date) would start a week earlier. Indoor start = the spring freeze date minus 6 to 5 weeks, our reading: Utah State gives a transplant 5 to 6 weeks to reach size and sets it out near that date. Fall sowing window = our count: Utah State plants 50 to 75 days before the crop should mature and wants it to mature roughly 1 to 2 weeks after the first fall frost, so we counted back from the fall freeze date (68 to 36 days before it). Pick whichever of these stations sits nearest you, since frost dates, not hardiness zones, set the calendar.

Which spinach sowing to choose

Soil temperature and the heat ahead settle it.

Spring, fall or a summer substitute Spring, fall or a summer substitute. Question 1: Are days long and above 75 F, or soon will be? Yes: go to question 2. No: go to question 3. Question 2: Do you want greens through the summer? Yes: Grow a summer substitute. No: Wait and sow for fall. Question 3: Can you work the soil, and is it 40 F or warmer? Yes: Sow spinach outdoors. No: Start transplants indoors. QUICK DECISION Spring, fall or a summer substitute Q1 Are days long and above 75 F, or soon will be? Q2 Do you want greens through the summer? Yes A Grow a summer substitute New Zealand or Malabar spinach, after frost Yes B Wait and sow for fall Mid-to-late summer, for a fall crop No Q3 Can you work the soil, and is it 40 F or warmer? No C Sow spinach outdoors 1/2 inch deep; resow within 2 weeks Yes D Start transplants indoors 5 to 6 weeks before setting them out No

Fall spinach and overwintering

For fall spinach, sow about 5 to 10 weeks before the first fall frost (our count from Utah State, the window in the table above), and choose an early maturing variety, as Utah State advises. Wisconsin Extension finds fall spinach often has better flavor than spring spinach, and its own fall sowing goes in around mid-August. Maryland says that, with some protection, fall spinach can be picked into December. The catch is hot soil: Johnny's warns that soil over 85 F risks poor, patchy germination and waters to cool the bed, while Utah State puts the drop above 80 F.

Carrying spinach through winter. Utah State says plants with 4 to 5 true leaves overwinter easily under a heavy mulch, pulled back once the snow melts. Wisconsin sows a "winter" crop in late September (its timing for Wisconsin) or cuts fall plants back to the crown, and names 'Bloomsdale Long Standing' among the hardier varieties. Maryland says late-fall sowings overwinter where winters are mild.

Why spinach bolts: heat and day length

Spinach bolts when days get long and temperatures climb. Utah State wants temperatures at or under 75 F, since warmer weather turns the leaves bitter; Wisconsin puts ideal spinach weather at 50 to 60 F. Maryland, Wisconsin, Utah State and NC State all name the same pair of triggers, longer days and rising heat. Once the seed stalk starts, leaf growth stops and the leaves turn bitter (NC State).

What else pushes it. Wisconsin adds that dry, infertile soil encourages bolting, and uneven moisture, Utah State warns, leaves the plants tough and off-flavored, so keep the bed evenly moist. Maryland's general bolting page warns that overly mature, stressed transplants and close spacing can also bring on flowering.

Slow-bolting varieties. They suit late spring sowings (Utah State) but do not stop the clock: Wisconsin notes that even these stay leafy only briefly in long, warm summer days. Wisconsin also retires the old rule that kept prickly-seeded types for spring and fall and round-seeded types for summer, since newer round-seeded types are slow to bolt.

The levers you have. Day length cannot be changed, so the sources work with sowing date (early spring and late summer), a slow-bolting variety for late spring sowings, and even moisture. Once a flower stalk shows, make a final harvest (Maryland).

Savoy, semi-savoy and smooth spinach varieties

Spinach comes in three leaf types: savoy (crinkled), semi-savoy (lightly crinkled) and smooth. Maryland and Wisconsin describe the same trade-off: savoy leaves have more texture but trap soil in their folds, while smooth leaves wash clean more easily, which is why Wisconsin says smooth types are usual for freezing and canning. Both main types bolt as days lengthen and warm (Maryland).

Days to harvest depend on what each source counts: 28 to 55 from seed (Maryland), 27 to 50 across Wisconsin's variety list, and 24 to 31 in Johnny's chart, which its footnote says are for baby leaf size.

A few named varieties, with who says what:

  • 'Bloomsdale': Wisconsin lists 'Bloomsdale Longstanding' (48 days), a very crinkly older type, as "good for late spring and early summer harvest". Johnny's lists its open-pollinated 'Bloomsdale' (30 days, baby leaf), heavily savoyed, for early spring and fall plantings, and rates its bolting as fast. The two names differ slightly.
  • 'Space': smooth leaved and bolt resistant to Wisconsin (39 days); Johnny's sells it as a variety for all seasons, with medium bolting in its chart (25 days, baby leaf).
  • Slow to bolt: 'Tyee' and 'Olympia' (Wisconsin) and 'Seaside' (Johnny's). Utah State names 'Olympia' with 'Bloomsdale', 'Melody' and 'Teton' as suited to Utah.

How to plant spinach: depth, spacing and succession

Plant spinach between 1/4 and 1/2 inch deep, then thin so plants stand 2 to 3 inches apart, with rows about 12 inches apart. Wisconsin thins when the leaves touch, at about 2 inches tall, and Maryland later cuts every other plant, leaving about 6 inches. The table below gives each source's figures.

Germination. Utah State's figures: seed sprouts most readily at 55 to 65 F, with seedlings up in 7 to 10 days.

Transplants. Johnny's calls direct sowing the customary method, but Utah State notes that transplants give an earlier harvest. Utah State generally grows them for 5 to 6 weeks, until they carry 4 to 6 mature leaves plus a good root system.

Succession. Each sowing gives a short run of leaves, so the sources resow every several days (Maryland) to about 2 weeks (Wisconsin, which switches to bolt-resistant varieties for later sowings).

The sources compared side by side:

How the spinach sources compare
Who says it Depth Spacing Temperatures Days to harvest Succession Spring timing
U. of Maryland Not given 3 in; about 6 in after a summer thinning Sow from 45 F 28 to 55 from seed Small sowings several days apart Early spring
Utah State 1/2 in 3 in; rows 12 in Sow from 40 F; germination peaks at 55 to 65 F; lower above 80 F Not given Not given 2 to 3 weeks before last frost (3 to 4 in its planting notes)
Wisconsin About 1/2 in 1 to 4 in, thinned when leaves touch Ideal weather 50 to 60 F 27 to 50 (variety list) About every 2 weeks About 4 weeks before last frost
NC State 1/4 to 1/2 in 2 to 3 in Not given Leaves at any size Every 1 to 2 weeks Early spring
Johnny's (seed company) 1/2 in 10 seeds per foot; rows 12 to 18 in Cool soil; risky over 85 F 24 to 31 (baby leaf); baby leaf in 3 to 5 weeks Every 7 to 10 days Once the soil can be worked

Sun, soil and water for spinach

Spinach wants sun or partial shade, fertile soil that drains well at pH 6.0 or above, and 1 to 2 inches of water each week from rain or the hose. Utah State picks a sunny spot with soil rich in organic matter and tests the soil before adding fertilizer. NC State grows it in full sun to partial shade, notes that some shade helps in hot weather, and says it gets by on 3 to 4 hours of sun, even in a container of 1 gallon and 4 to 6 inches deep. For pH, NC State lists 6.0 to 8.0, while the seed company Johnny's calls spinach sensitive to acidity and wants at least 6.0, ideally 6.5 to 7.5. For water, Utah State supplies 1 to 2 inches weekly; Wisconsin keeps the soil evenly moist. Spinach is a heavy feeder (Wisconsin): Utah State side-dresses 1/4 cup of 21-0-0 per 10 feet of row at thinning. Keep weeds pulled small, since spinach competes poorly with them (Utah State, Wisconsin).

What to plant with spinach

Pair spinach with later, larger crops. Minnesota Extension sows spinach or lettuce early and transplants tomatoes or peppers into the same bed as the greens mature. West Virginia University interplants spinach between those larger, slow-growing vegetables, which shade the smaller crop once it matures. Our companion planting chart lists more pairings and the evidence behind each.

Harvesting spinach: leaf by leaf or the whole plant

Start picking spinach leaves once a plant has at least 6 true leaves (Wisconsin), or cut the whole plant at maturity, 28 to 55 days from seed by Maryland's count (about 4 to 8 weeks, our conversion). The sources describe two methods:

  • Leaf by leaf. The older, outer leaves usually come off first, letting the young center leaves keep growing (Utah State). Maryland says cutting full-size leaves prompts new ones from the crown, and Wisconsin picks this way in fall so plants keep producing.
  • The whole plant. Wisconsin favors this in spring or once a central stalk shows, cutting at the soil line rather than pulling, so the leaves stay cleaner. Utah State cuts every leaf to 2 inches above the soil and lets the plant regrow, so long as the crown's growing point is unharmed. Johnny's cuts just above the base of the plant for cut-and-come-again leaves, or just below it to take the whole plant.

Once a flower stalk appears, make a final harvest (Maryland). Wash savoy leaves especially well (Wisconsin).

Keeping spinach. Wisconsin keeps it in the refrigerator for up to a week; in cold storage at 32 F, the sources give 1 to 3 weeks between them.

Spinach pests: leafminers and downy mildew

Leafminers. The spinach and beet leafminer is a small fly whose larvae tunnel between the leaf surfaces, leaving pale blotches and trails. Maryland says this species mainly attacks spinach, beets and Swiss chard, along with related weeds such as lambsquarters. Pinching mined leaves to crush the larvae, or removing them, is Maryland's main control; it advises against sprays, because they curb the beneficial parasitoids that kill leafminers, and Wisconsin adds that sprays do not reach larvae inside the leaf. To keep the flies off, both put row cover over the crop: Maryland before egg-laying starts in April (its Maryland timing), Wisconsin right after thinning, held up on hoops, since fabric rubbed by wind can scuff the tender leaves.

Downy mildew. Maryland describes tan to dull yellow angular spots that spread between the leaf veins, with a gray to purplish mold that can show underneath in wet weather. Its prevention list starts with resistant varieties, then spacing for air flow, watering at the base, and pulling badly infected plants; Wisconsin also turns to resistant varieties.

Summer substitutes: New Zealand and Malabar spinach

New Zealand spinach and Malabar spinach are not spinach. They are different plants from different families that give spinach-like leaves in hot weather, when true spinach bolts, and Wisconsin suggests them for that summer gap.

  • New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides, family Aizoaceae, per Wisconsin): a tender, sprawling annual with stems 2 to 4 feet long and smaller, fuzzier leaves that Wisconsin says cook up much like spinach. Maryland notes that it prefers hot weather, goes in only once frost danger is over, reseeds itself and comes back each year, and can be picked all summer. The seed company Botanical Interests lists 50 to 60 days, seed 1/2 inch deep, sown in groups of 3 set 8 inches apart, each group thinned to one plant.
  • Malabar spinach (Basella alba, family Basellaceae, per Wisconsin) is a climbing vine for a sturdy trellis, planted out a few weeks after frost danger has passed and slow to grow while nights stay below 60 F. NC State says it takes heat into the 90s F but not frost, and that dry soil or extreme heat makes it flower and turn bitter.

Maryland also mentions perpetual spinach, which it says is actually a type of chard.

Seeds and supplies

Buy fresh seed each year, since spinach seed is short-lived (Wisconsin). Match the variety to the season: a fast type such as 'Bloomsdale' for early spring and fall, a slow-bolting type such as 'Seaside', 'Tyee' or 'Olympia' for late spring, and a downy-mildew-resistant type such as 'Space' where that disease shows up. For summer greens, New Zealand or Malabar spinach seed.

Little else is needed: floating row cover on hoops against leafminers, mulch for the bed, and snips for clean harvest cuts.

What you'll need for spinach

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Sources we used

Each figure in this guide traces to the pages below, all read in October 2026. Each is given as its source states it, and where sources differ, both appear.

Frequently asked questions

How long does spinach take to grow?

Baby leaves can be cut in about 3 to 5 weeks (Johnny's). For full-size plants, Maryland gives 28 to 55 days from seed (about 4 to 8 weeks, our conversion), and Wisconsin's varieties run from 27 to 50 days.

When should I plant spinach?

Early in the year, roughly 2 to 4 weeks ahead of your last spring frost, provided the soil has reached 40 to 45 F, and again in late summer for fall. See the table above for dates at four NOAA stations.

Can spinach survive frost?

Yes. Utah State says 32 F does young plants no serious harm, and NC State says plants survive down to 20 F. With 4 to 5 true leaves and a heavy mulch, Utah State says spinach overwinters for an early spring crop.

Why is my spinach bolting?

Long days and warm weather trigger it; Utah State says spinach does well at or under 75 F. Dry or poor soil adds to it (Wisconsin). Sow earlier, keep the soil evenly moist, and choose a slow-bolting variety for late sowings.

How do you harvest spinach so it keeps growing?

Usually pick the outer leaves first and leave the center to grow, or cut the whole plant 2 inches above the soil without harming the growing point (Utah State).

What is the difference between savoy and smooth spinach?

Savoy spinach has crinkled leaves with more texture that tend to hold soil; smooth spinach has flat leaves that wash clean easily. Semi-savoy types fall in between.

Can you grow spinach in a container?

Yes. NC State says a pot holding 1 gallon and 4 to 6 inches deep will do, and spinach manages with 3 to 4 hours of direct sun.

Are New Zealand spinach and Malabar spinach real spinach?

No. They are separate plants in different families (Aizoaceae and Basellaceae), grown for spinach-like leaves in summer heat, when true spinach bolts.